Une journée au Pérou !
Par Julien Dressaire le lundi 27 janvier 2014, 01:02 - Lien permanent
Ce matin j’ouvre les yeux dans le dortoir d’une auberge de jeunesse à Cuzco. Je savoure la douce chaleur de ma couette en contemplant le lieu : les lits superposés, nos affaires qui jonchent le sol et mes acolytes qui cuvent notre soirée d’hier. Il y a Giordane (le Brésilien), Pedro (l’Espagnol), Laura et Ale (les Argentins), tout ça sent bon l’internat sans les pions ni les devoirs. Nous nous sommes tous rencontrés la veille, on a bu quelques Pisco histoire de tisser des liens et délier les langues puis nous avons croqué quelques Cuyes (une sorte de gros Hamster) la spécialité locale. Je décolle quelques minutes plus tard après l'habituelle séance photo avec tous mes nouveaux amis, aujourd’hui cap sur Nazca et ses fameuses lignes : 610 km.
Je délaisse la capitale des Incas pour me jeter à corps perdu sur la Carretera Interoceanica ! Le Pérou n’est pas vraiment le pays le plus riche du monde mais les retombées issues du tourisme sont une véritable bouffée d’oxygène qui lui permette d’avoir un réseau routier en excellente condition. Une fois le rituel des encombrements digéré la route se met à serpenter. Je suis dans un premier temps retissant à la mise sur l’angle de ma moto. Mes pneus au profil carré ne m’y incitent pas vraiment (déjà 14 000 km qu’ils m’accompagnent). Et puis petit à petit les virages s’enchainent, la moto bondit d’un virage à l’autre. La quasi absence de circulation me permet quelques excentricités : je soigne mes trajectoires, ressort parfois un peu trop large : quel pied !!
Plutôt issu du vtt que du super motard, je me surprends à planter des freinages désaxés, j’attends cette dérive jouissive du train arrière en entrée de virage : il n’en est rien ! L’Abs veille au grain, je pourrai le déconnecter mais entre le poids respectable de mon équipage et le lieu desertique dans lequel je circule, ce n’est pas le moment de se prendre pour les frères Chambon ! Il n’empêche, durant toute la journée je me délecterai de ces courbes dans un paysage extraordinaire évoluant entre 2500 et 4000m..
Alors que le soleil disparait et le froid devient mordant, je gravis le dernier col de la journée..La pluie vient battre ma visière, puis le claquement devient plus sec, la route blanchie : il grêle ! Je garde un œil sur le thermomètre pour surveiller le risque de verglas alors que l’altimètre ne cesse de grimper. Arrivé à 4300m je plonge dans le brouillard, le GPS comme la carte n’indiquent aucun village, aucune âme qui vive..Je roule ainsi des dizaines de kilomètres et finis par me résoudre à l’idée qu’il va me falloir planter ma tente dans ces conditions exécrables. Je me dis que cette formidable journée de moto ne peut se terminer ainsi, et puis le hasard fait bien les choses, des gens marchent sur la route ! Je ne suis donc pas loin d’un village et donc d’un endroit où m’abriter.
Apres quelques minutes je me trouve chez un éleveur qui s’improvisera hôtelier pour la nuit. L’arrivée de l’étranger à moto a fait le tour du village et tout le monde vient assouvir sa curiosité. Rodrigo qui m’héberge pour la nuit en tire une énorme fierté et veille à mon deux roues comme si c’était le sien. Le soir une petite boutique fait office de restaurant : soupe, poulet, riz et frite, sans oublier le verre d’Inca Cola (le soda Péruvien) pour 2 € . Et toute cette chaleur humaine, ces sourires, cette seine curiosité face à l’étranger. Un grand moment. Il est temps de rejoindre mon duvet, demain la film continue :-)
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